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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.